Southern comfort: Blown away by the windy city

Winter's breath will chill your bones in Wellington - the world's southernmost capital where Tawhiri, the Maori god of winds and storms, resides. Yet at every turn from the cold, there's a zesty invitation to rug up and embrace the season as locals do - with open arms and a zipped-up coat. A compact, walkable city that revels in the gale-force power of its location in the Roaring Forties, Wellington comes into its own in the chilly season. As poet Lauris Edmond tells it: "This is the city of action, the world headquarters of the verb."

Wellington's population of about 200,000 are hardy souls. I should know. I've counted myself among them for more than 20 years. When winter kicks off, we get out there. What of those 100-plus-kilometre winds? Sure, they once teamed up with a lightning bolt to annihilate our beloved Zephyrometer, an enormous needle-shaped sculpture designed for the very purpose of pointing out the wind's strength and direction. But Wellington's icy blasts don't stop city-siders from enjoying the wildest months of the year. They shouldn't deter you either.

Walking Wellington's waterfront will get you acquainted. It's where the harbour whips up to meet the city's rough edges and the weather dominates. On weekends, I head to the sea to order my espresso at the city's Harbour Market before beelining to Cuba Street, Wellington's oldest, most eclectic promenade. Escape into long-standing vintage stores like Ziggurat for a pre-loved pinstriped suit, a second-hand kimono, a diamante earring. Go to Slow Boat Records to flip through album covers. Or slip into Suite gallery to marvel at the creative genius of the late documentary photographer Ans Westra whose work is on permanent display. Nearby, on Ghuznee Street, a selection of home goods has been curated just for you at Kaukau thanks to the impeccable taste of stylish owners Nadya France-White and Prak Sritharan. Tired from all that browsing? Round the corner to the Hannahs Laneway Precinct, a former shoe factory and warehouse, and pull up a stool at Leeds Street Bakery. Re-energise with a hot chocolate and a chewy salted caramel cookie. And don't leave without an aromatic loaf of Shelly Bay Baker's sourdough wedged under your arm for snacks later.

In winter, the night skies of Wellington burn that much brighter as the nine-star cluster known as Matariki (the Pleiades) begins to rise in the predawn sky. Marking the start of the Maori New Year, the celestial event encourages reflection, feasting and looking ahead, and revives a Pacific tradition dating back more than a thousand years. This year, the city is going all in for Matariki. Wellington's first-ever Eat, Drink and Play festival is running from July 1-16 to showcase manaakitanga, a special kind of Kiwi hospitality. "I can't wait," mayor Tory Whanau tells me. "Our city will come alive."

Te Papa, the country's national museum, is showing Manawatia a Matariki, an exhibition sharing stories of Matariki's stars. The city's hotels, venues, restaurants and bars have rallied to design more than 150 events inspired by the natural elements. St John's Bar & Eatery on Wellington's waterfront has private outdoor igloos where you can down a cocktail swaddled in plush rugs and bathed in the ambient twinkle of fairy lights. At Zealandia Te Mra a Tne this winter, night tours of the city's 225-hectare eco-sanctuary come with a sure bet of sighting New Zealand's rare national bird, the little spotted kiwi, foraging beneath the heavens.

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Some of the biggest news in Wellington this winter has a kick to it: the FIFA Women's World Cup 2023. Hosting 10 of the world's best women's football teams, the city will shuttle ticket holders for free to and from Wellington Regional Stadium for the nine matches held there.

Between July 20 and August 20, see world champions USA taking on the Netherlands in a replay of the 2019 final, and the New Zealand Football Ferns play the Philippines.

Geek out watching the South African and Swedish teams train at their adopted home bases: Porirua Park and Upper Hutt's Central Institution of Technology. On Wellington's waterfront Shed 6 will excite fans as the tournament's primary headquarters. For the hopheads in the crowd, there is Beervana, New Zealand's biggest craft beer festival weekend from August 18-19. Lego lovers keen on eyeballing giant dinosaurs between soccer matches can check out the Jurassic World exhibition at Takina, the city's brand-new convention and exhibition centre. Meanwhile, Burger Wellington, running throughout the city from August 11-27, will challenge even the most devoted foodies. The task: to chew your way through 242 burgers, vote for your favourite and help crown the winner of Wellington's best burger of 2023.

A capital accolade indeed.

Getting there: Air New Zealand flies non-stop from Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne to Wellington daily. See airnewzealand.com.au

Staying there: Wellington InterContinental Hotel in the CBD offers classic five-star rooms and service and a brand-new restaurant, the GPO. From $NZ367 ($347) a night. See wellington.intercontinental.com. Naumi Wellington is a box-fresh boutique hotel on Cuba Street. Interiors combine floral carpets, lolly-coloured furnishings and fun sculptural details like giant pink flowers. From $NZ289, see naumihotels.com. QT Hotel, located close to Te Papa Tongarewa Museum of New Zealand, is a place of fine art, fine dining, luxe rooms and great views. From $NZ309, see qthotels.com/wellington. The Wellesley Boutique Hotel is an elegant heritage hotel with 12 Georgian rooms located in Lambton Quay close to the Beehive, the centre of government. From $NZ209, see wellesleyboutiquehotel.co.nz.

Explore more: newzealand.com; wellingtonnz.com