There's more to Airlie Beach than meets the eye - here's why

Could Airlie Beach be the next Noosa? It's a hard sell, I know. Airlie Beach is not even a real beach - the name is a trick - and it's best known as a gateway to everything else in the Whitsundays, such as the world famous Whitehaven Beach and Hayman Island, or for its many snorkelling and glass-bottom boat tours.

But give Airlie a few days and you'll discover it has a lot to offer, including sophisticated bars and food experiences, and top-notch accommodation that won't break the bank. Here's a guide.

The town's main street has been spruced up in recent years and, although there is still tie-dye and tarot readings to be found on Shute Harbour Road (the main drag), there are also more stylish offerings, such as OASIS Lifestyle boutique, with fashion and jewellery, homewares and great gifts, and both Airllywood and Court & Spark for gorgeous dresses, shoes and accessories. There are also community markets to browse every Saturday - with handmade stone jewels, cool woodwork and moreish local fruit ice cream.

This area is one of Australia's great food bowls - as you'll note on the scenic drive from Proserpine airport past heaving fields of sugar cane, bustling orchards and happily grazing farm animals. Pick of the bunch is Fish D'Vine & Rum Bar, where you can enjoy the huge seafood platter, seafood chowder in a bread bowl and mojitos. Sit outside and watch the sky change colour, or perch at the bar - with its collection of 450 rums.

The pizzas at The Deck are excellent and long-timer KC's Bar and Grill serves succulent and sizable steaks (and a game tasting platter), as well as regular live music and open mike nights.

For Euro-inspired fine dining, The Belvedere has the romantic setting, fancy tasting menu and courteous service that is helping lift Airlie Beach out of its backpacker vibes.

On the marina, seek out Bohemian Raw's delicious poke bowls made with salmon sashimi or okonomiyaki and hokkien noodles or quinoa and rice - so good I ate them two days in a row. Plus, raw desserts, sandwiches featuring house-made beetroot spread, feta, pumpkin seeds and rocket, fairtrade organic coffee, ayurvedic herbal teas and probiotic beverages. See, so Noosa!

For coffee, locals rave about Fat Frog Beach Cafe on Cannonvale Beach, where you can also load up on a breakfast of champions - piled-high pikelet stacks with Queensland bananas and ice cream.

You may have spotted Airlie Beach on the boozy reality TV show Below Deck Down Under, filmed on superyacht Thalassa and in and around Coral Sea Marina, making it look like a bacchanalian, wet T-shirt soaked backpackers' haven. In real life, though, it's not like that. In addition to mega-clubs like Magnums, which featured on the show, there are more intimate options for a lovely evening out.

At the marina, Sorrento Restaurant and Bar has an open garden, Garden Bar and Bistro offers great cocktails and you can enjoy poolside pina coladas at Anchor Bar. Back in town, Cool Lala is a modern Asian-fusion restaurant with an extravagant cocktail list (ingredients include wasabi vodka and yuzu foam) and the rooftop bar at Paradiso has excellent cocktails (try the Mango Paradiso) and super snacks, including jamon croquettes, and mushroom and gorgonzola arancini.

The Mirage Whitsundays is huge, with innumerable serviced-apartment options, including villas, town houses and penthouses, with views over the sea and islands, and access to the boardwalk that meanders into town. It's not new but the old-school solidness and roominess still works. As a bonus, every day at dusk, I'm joined on my enormous balcony by nine friendly cockatoos. They walk right up and even have a little chat. As the sun sets, it's simply wonderful.

There's also a pool, tiny gym and restaurant that awkwardly attempts to merge Indonesian and Mexican street food.

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I'm not going to tell you about all the wonderfulness of the Whitsundays and its 74 islands - the swimming, the snorkelling, the diving - because this is about not leaving Airlie Beach.

Jet skiing at Airlie is great fun and an excellent way to see the islands and, even better, the mansions of the Whitsundays. Whitsunday Jet Ski Tours - based out of the Coral Sea Marina - is an excellent operation with just the right mix of adrenaline, sea life and local history and gossip.

There are some beautiful walks around as well - one of the best is the five-kilometre Honeyeater Lookout at sunrise, supplying birdsong and panoramic views of the town and water out to the islands.

For family fun, the Airlie Beach Lagoon is a giant and free artificial beach and swimming spot with cafes and umbrellas. But if you are all set on a beach-like situation, walk 30 minutes out of town to Cannonvale Beach, which offers a small palm-tree-lined sandy space for saltwater frolicking.

This "beach" is also where perhaps one of the more random activities I've done launches from. "Water bikes" (via camping and tour group Scamper) are like bicycles with banana-like flotation devices instead of wheels and make an eco-friendly way to get quietly up close to the local turtles and dugongs and (despite appearances) make for a great on-water workout. After 90 minutes the legs are burning!

Getting there: Virgin, Qantas and Jetstar all have direct flights from major cities to Proserpine Airport (PPP), a half hour drive from Airlie Beach.

Staying there: Mirage Whitsundays from $300/night, miragewhitsundays.com.au

Explore more: tourismwhitsundays.com.au

The writer travelled with assistance from Tourism Whitsundays.