One perfect 'daycation': How to have your best ever stopover in Singapore
You can accomplish a lot in 14 hours. Just follow our lead.
You can accomplish a lot in 14 hours. Just follow our lead.
Arrival and breakfast
My bags are booked all the way to Australia, so I only have my carry-on, with a dress, comfortable shoes, swimmers, toiletries, a change of clothes and, of course, my boarding pass for the onward flight. I've filled in my arrival card online, bought an eSIM (Airalo; $US 4.50 or $6.70) and downloaded the Grab ride app.
With no wait for luggage, I'm outside and meeting my driver within 20 minutes of landing and 40 minutes later, I'm at the Pan Pacific's Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay hotel - one of a handful of Singapore hotels that offer "daycation" rates. Here, it comes with discounts at the hotel's restaurants, so after showering and changing, I enjoy a leisurely breakfast.
Morning shopping
While Singapore has innumerable malls where you can shop in air-conditioned comfort, it's a bit same-same, so I head to Kampong Gelam. The Muslim quarter is one of Singapore's oldest city neighbourhoods, home to colourful 19th-century shophouses along a grid of street-art-lined laneways.
One of the specialities here is fabrics and at Basharahil Bros Batik in Arab Street, I buy well-priced pure cotton batik lengths for a sarong or tablecloth.
Perfume, specifically oil-based scents are another unique buy in Kampong Gelam. At Jamal Kazura Aromatics, where the windows are filled with ornate handblown Egyptian glass bottles, you can choose ready-made fragrances or have something custom-blended. At Royal Fragrances, there are perfumed-infused charcoal chips for burning, known as bakhoor.
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Vintage and slow-fashion fans should bookmark Haji Lane. At number 41, Vintage Wknd owners Eileen Tan and Eden Tay rescue old clothes and fabrics and rework them as well as sell classic vintage - from sweet 1950s frocks to 70s frilled cocktail dresses. Their second store at number 16, Superwasted, operates on the same principles, but has a grungier street vibe. Nonmainstream, at number 36, sells both vintage and contemporary used clothing and accessories, while Kaeru Thrift, at number 19, has inexpensive pieces from Japan. At the popular Hygge on North Bridge Road, I browse thoughtful homewares from around the world and at Grand Bazaar Turkish Handicrafts on Bussorah Street, I check out ceramics, coloured glass lanterns and ornate tea sets.
I'm tempted to stop for a craft beer at Good Luck Beer House, but I buy a coconut shake from Co+Nut+Ink instead and wander down Muscat Street to admire the street art.
Lunch time sight-seeing
It feels older but the magnificent Tang-style Chinese Buddhist temple, Buddha Tooth Temple, dates from 2007. It takes its name from an artefact, said to be the left canine tooth of Buddha recovered from his funeral pyre and on display at certain times in the Sacred Light Hall on the fourth floor. I wander the 100 Dragon Hall", with a massive statue of the Buddha Maitreya (future buddha) carved from a single piece of wood. Around the perimeter of the hall, in rows of atmospherically-lit wall niches are another 100 buddhas. There is a ceremony taking place, with orange- and saffron-clad monks chanting and banging gongs, while black-clad devotees pray. Behind the Dragon Hall is the Universal Wisdom Hall and an impressive hand-carved Tang-period Bodhisattva seated on a lotus throne.
Just across from the temple is the Chinatown Complex Food Centre, home to Singapore's largest hawker centre. Stalls are cash only, but there's an ATM.
It's noisy, chaotic and crowded as I wander around the 200-odd stalls, all emitting smells that make my stomach growl. A handful have longer queues, inevitably those selling Singapore's ubiquitous chicken rice dish. Eventually, I settle on rice noodle rolls made by former Raffles Hotel chef, Leung Tsz Cham. Silky and chewy, wrapped around fillings such as char sui pork and soused with a sweet-savoury soy sauce and sprinkled with spring onion, they are delicious, satisfying and cost just $SG4 ($4.44).
Afternoon Sling and swim
It's been years since I've been to Raffles, but nothing seems to have changed. I bypass the main entrance, manned by turbaned doorman in crisp white and gold uniforms, and head down the colonnaded walkway and through the leafy courtyard, where there's a great perspective of the impressive colonial architecture. Up the staircase, I follow the signs for The Long Bar, the birthplace of the famous Singapore Sling. In the early 1900s, Singapore's proximity to Malaya saw many plantation owners coming here for business and this was their rendezvous point. It wasn't considered seemly for women to do so, however - they were expected to take tea or fruit juice. But in 1915, a wily barkeep created a cocktail that looked just like juice and indeed contained lime and pineapple juice, but also Curacao, benedictine, grenadine and cherry liqueur - its pink and feminine look deigned appropriate for women. I perch at a stool at the wood-topped bar, beneath rattan ceiling fans, where my Sling arrives with a hessian sack of peanuts. The custom is to drop the shells on the floor, just as the plantation owners once did. The Raffles doorman kindly hails me a taxi and I head back to Parkroyal Collection hotel. It's hot and the pool calls, so I get into my swimmers, throw on a robe and head up to the level five terrace, fringed with greenery and with spectacular city views.
Last drinks and departure
Check-out is 6pm at the hotel, so I shower and change while charging my phone. After checking out, I make a quick detour through Peppermint restaurant and outside to check out the hotel's urban farm. I then taking a comfortable seat back inside at the Portman's Bar for a gin and tonic. Approximately two-and-a-half hours before my 9.30 pm flight, I leave, the hotel doorman waving down a taxi. Pleasantly tired, I breeze through the airport for my flight home.
TRIP NOTES
Daycation packages at the Pan-Pacific Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay start from $260 and include an 8am check in and 6pm check out. Daycation guests receive a 20 per discount on food and beverages, and on in-room dining, along with access to gym and pool, in-room coffee and tea, and free internet.
Explore more: visitsingapore.com
Natascha Mirosch was a guest of Pan-Pacific's Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay hotel.
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