The sweet treat with a 'bitter history' everyone should try when visiting Italy

In the 14th century, the region's ruler, a cruel Marquis named Doria, enforced jus primae noctis - his right to deflower all new brides. Lucrezia, a beautiful young woman betrothed to Basso, came to the attention of the Marquis and so the couple married in secret. During their wedding celebrations, however, the Marquis's guards stormed in, kidnapping Lucrezia and taking her to the castle. Lucrezia refused the Marquis's demands and in retaliation, he imprisoned her in the castle dungeon where she died of starvation. Mad with grief, Basso infiltrated the castle and held a dagger to the Marquis's throat, demanding the abolition of jus primae noctis. The Marquis acquiesced.

The following day the women of the town celebrated and to honour Lucrezia, baked a small sweet bun, shaping it like female genitalia. They named it "michetta" (dialect for "little kitten") and paraded through the streets, shouting: "Men, now we give the michetta to those that we want." That day of celebration is repeated annually on August 16, at Dolceacqua's festival, Sagra della Michetta.

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Made from flour, eggs, yeast, sugar and oil, michetta are flavoured with vanilla, lemon peel or orange blossom. At Alimentare Francesca near San Sebastiano church, Signora Raffo bakes up to 20 kilos each day. They are reputedly the best in town, and it's where Bettina buys hers. They're light and airy and locals dip them in the local Rossese wine, but like other tourists, I prefer them with my morning coffee.